Ollantaytambo, Peru
photo by Emmanuel DYAN

Ollantaytambo (called by locals Ollanta) is a town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas near Cuzco in the Southern Sierra region of Peru. This is where the Incas retreated after the Spanish took Cuzco. Much of the town is laid out in the same way as it was in Inca times.

Getting there

By Combi

There are combis that travel frequently between the market in Ollantaytambo and the bus station in Urubamba. They are crowded, but at 0.45 soles one way it is by far the cheapest way to travel. There are also comfortable mini-vans which run between Cusco and Ollanta (via Urubamba) for 10 Soles for the 1 1/2 hour trip. They run all day, leaving when full. In Cusco, catch the vans on Calle Pavitos, which is between Belen and Av Grau, 3 blocks West of Av El Sol.

By bus

There are frequent buses to and from Urubamba (2 soles); further connection can be made to Cuzco there (3 soles). At 3:50PM, 4:40PM and 5:20PM there are direct buses leaving from Av Grau 525 in Cuzco (5 soles).

By rail

Two types of trains arrive at the station. The first is locals only that is heavily monitored to ensure no tourists ride it. There are hefty fines if caught on the locals' train. The second is the tourist train which runs Cusco/Ollantaytambo/Aguas Calientes. If you are doing the Inca Trail, you will want to get on the train to Aguas Calientes and get off when the train stops mid-route.

There are three types of tourist trains. Ordered by descending price, they are the Hiram Bingham, Vistadome, and Backpacker trains. Go to for the current prices and schedule.

If you purchase a ticket from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, you cannot get off at Ollantaytambo for a few hours and then use the same ticket from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes. If you want to spend time in Ollantaytambo, it is more cost effective to take a bus to Urubamba from Cusco and then a connecting bus to Ollantaytambo (or a direct minivan).

After Trekking to Machu Picchu

Many guide services include a train ride from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo or all the way to Cuzco as a part of the guided services. In the former situation, trekkers are expected to pay for their own bus from Ollantaytambo to Cuzco and are informed of this in advance. Taking the bus from Ollantaytambo to Cuzco as opposed to the trains full route saves a half hour to an hour. Inquire with your tour operator in advance as to which tickets they purchase. Tickets purchased by the guide services to Ollantaytambo can be changed at the station the day of or the day before depending upon seat availability. Change fees can range from 0-$20 depending upon the class of train that is being changed to. Arrive at least 45 minutes early as there may be a line, for the earliest trains (5:30AM) the ticket office opens at 5AM.

Travelers & Trekkers can make excellent use of the obligatory return trip to Cuzco by staying the night in Aguas Calientes after visiting Machu Picchu and visiting the Ollantaytambo ruins, the salt mines near Urubamba, the Incan agricultural lab of Moray, or the ruins above Pisac the next day (all of which are along the route back to Cuzco in route order). Choose two sites and allow a half day for each site for relaxed viewing, transit, and meals. The last busses from Pisac to Cuzco leave around 8PM. Be aware of your belongings on busses after dark. Or, stay in Pisac and backtrack to any of the sites the next day. Inquire at Ulrike´s cafe in Pisac for lodging recommendations (open until 9PM).

Traveling around

Walking or cycling is the best idea. Three wheeled moto-taxis and regular taxis are available at the train station but are not necessary. The walk from the train station to the main plaza is approximately a quarter mile. It can be broken up by various restaurants that line the way even after the busiest sections. It is a two minute walk from the main plaza to the ruins.

See

  • Take a stroll through the town. There are still several houses dating back from Incan time.

  • Ruins of Ollantaytambo - ruins of largely religious significance, they doubled as the the last and largest defensive structures near the plains below where the Incas defeated the Spaniards in battle. Admission with boleto turistico (can be purchased at entrance to ruins) or S/40 for just this site. Local guides can be hired in the market area below the ruins (20 soles). Or, do it yourself by purchasing the book most of the guides use, ¨Cuzco and the sacred valley of the Incas¨(salazar and salazar) which has an extensive section on Ollantaytambo. The book can be purchased in the market below the ruins (50 soles) or in advance in Cuzco (35 soles). Neither the guides nor the guidebook discuss the battles, for information on this research on your own in advance. Tours focus largely on the unique architectural significance of the sun's rays on the carved face of the canyon wall and on the temple walls, the still functioning fountains, and the large stone operating table. Even if you're not an archeology buff or ruins fan, these are worth seeing. Beautiful views abound.

  • Pinkalluna is the hill with Incan storehouses overlooking the town and facing the main ruins. To get to the path up to these ruins, follow the road closest to the base of the hill (the rightmost one in the town grid when facing Pinkalluna). You will see a small sign with an arrow pointing to a steep path, which takes you up to a series of ruins and storehouses. Admission is free, and from here you can see some of the most spectacular views of the Ollantaytambo ruins and town and the Urubamba Valley. It's a lovely hike, and can be done in just an hour or two.

Things to do

Look for houses with red plastic bags hanging outside on posts. These houses are where locals go to drink chicha, a local brew made out of corn. It is a great way to experience the local flavor, provided that you speak enough Spanish to communicate with the other chicha drinkers. It is advisable that you look for a place that serves things other than chicha, as some people find the taste unpleasant. However this is an acquired taste and can be overcome easily. Chicha, unlike masato made in the rainforest is not made by mixing with saliva as erroneously stated in the entry that this is correcting.

  • Visit the Old Town unique in all of Peru, this part of Ollantaytambo was built by the Incas over five hundred years ago is inhabited to date. Entering an Inca cancha or courtyard is like travelling back in time.

  • KB Tambo, a hostel, restaurant, mountain bike, and adventure tour office rents mountain bikes by the day and arranges tours. If you're lucky, KB himself will lead the tour; if you get this opportunity you should jump on it, and be advised you're likely in for some serious adventure.

  • Awamaki Weaving Project , Calle Convencion s/n, Awamaki is a small non-profit organization that works to support Quechua women weavers from remote, rural communities in the Patacancha Valley.Awamaki runs a small-scale sustainable tourism initiative to support this project, conducting tours to the Quechua communities where it works, and coordinating workshops in traditional Andean crafts. Tours to the community of Patacancha offer the chance to experience and learn about Andean indigenous culture, while also contributing to its survival and to the well-being of rural indigenous women and their families. For bookings and inquiries please contact *tours@awamaki.org* or stop by the Awamaki fair trade store in Ollantaytambo.

Eat

There are several restaurants in Ollantaytambo:

  • El Albergue Restaurant within the El Albergue B&B this new restaurant has a first rate open kitchen where you can see your alpaca and trout dinners being prepared. Menu options include homemade fettuccine, sandwiches and great breakfast. In the evening white table cloths are spread, candles are lit, and the restaurant becomes a first rate dining experience.

  • Cafe Mayu is on the Ollantaytambo train station where you can grab a very good espresso or cappuccino as well as chocolate chip cookies and brownies. You can browse their menu for great breakfast and lunch options.

  • Kusicoyllor Restaurant Cafe offers novo andine & international cuisine,provide a good an unique view to the ruins, a candelite atmosphere for the dinner,Kusicoyllor restaurant is most common know to have the best coffee in Cusco.Located just near de Ollantaytambo fortress. Phone 204114

  • Hearts Cafe , is on the main square of Ollantaytambo with views across the plaza onto the Inca temple-fortress. Profits go to children's projects in the Sacred Valley. Pleasant pavement dining, quality coffee, book exchange, and plenty of magazines.

  • KB Tambo, a hostel, restaurant, mountain bike, and adventure tour office, has very excellent food by Chef Alejo, a Chilean native who has lived in Ollanta for 15 years. KB Tambo is located just down the hill towards the ruins from the Main Plaza. www.kbperu.com

  • Panaka Grill, 204047, is on the main plaza. Sit upstairs on their balcony and take in the view of the square while you enjoy the wonderful novoandina and international food. Finish off with a cappucino and one of their delicious desserts.

  • Quechua Blues Bar, This place is a very laid back spot, located just across the river in town. Once you cross the river, facing the ruins, look to a street on your left. The upstairs has swings and a very relaxed atmosphere, and the food is very good. Meals run about 15 soles, and lots of cool people are around at night.

Drink

The English Pub: Ollanta's first "pub" opened in early 2010. Landlord Porfirio has years of experience bar-tending and knows what a real bar needs. The only place in town with British ales on tap, comfy sofas and satellite TV. Local non-profit Awamaki hosts regular quiz nights, salsa nights and everything-else nights in between.

Hang out at El Ganso with very down-to-earth owner "Acha".

Sleep

Hostels

  • KB Tambo,+011(51 84)-204091 . Recently newly reconstructed with private baths in every room, pleasant courtyard garden and awesome rooftop deck with ruins views. English speaking owner - "KB" (very dynamic and interesting guy) - also rents mountain bikes by the day or will arrange a tour. Most excellent restaurant with food by Chef Alejo. KB Tambo is located at the top of Ave Ferrocarril, the road from the railway station, at the intersection of the main road through town (Calle Ventidero). Rates $10-$28 per person.

  • Hotel Munay T'ika, - This hostal has been under recent renovations. It is just up the road from the railway station, not too far from Pakaritampu. It is an inexpensive but clean hostal that also provides breakfast of breads, jams, eggs, banana pancakes, coffee and tea in the mornings (approximately $30/night).

Budget

  • Hostal Las Orquideas, +011 (51 84)-204032 Ave Ferrocarril. Small rooms around courtyard with shared bath. Often used by tour groups. Upper floor has view of ruins. Rates vary from 20-40, but for $25 a night you can have a private bathroom, and the room has two beds for you to use. Excellent quality, and just down the road from the train station.

Mid-range

  • Hostal Sauce, Calle Ventiderio 248, +011(51-84)-204044, Fax: +011(51-84)-204048, Located at the top of the road to the train station and Calle Ventiderio (the main road through town). Just off the main square, centrally located, some rooms have views of the Ollantaytambo ruins, breakfast included, no restaurant. Rates $88-$145.

  • El Albergue Ollantaytambo , Ollantaytambo Train Station platform, Telefax: +011 (51-84)204014 . Built in the 1920's this hotel was reopened in the 70s as a back packer place and has been renovated recently to includen private baths, hot showers, beautiful gardens and friendly staff. The Albergue restaurant is rated one of the best in the Sacred Valley serving delicious trout, and alpaca, as well as homemade fettucine and great breakfast. Cafe Mayu, outside serves some of the best coffee in all of Peru. The proprietor, Wendy Weeks, has been living in Peru for 30 years. Affordable prices, excellent food, English spoken. Don’t forget to take the sauna included in price of room. Knowledgeable staff offers great orientation and arrangements for day hikes, tours and activities. Hammocks in the back a great addition if you choose to just hang out. Rates $58 -$74. During peak season (may 1ST – august 31st) minimum stay two nights required, discounted December-March.

Splurge

  • Hotel Pakaritampu,+011(+51-84)-204020 . Located about halfway down Ave Ferrocarril between the main square and the railway station. Recently constructed modern rooms. Beautiful garden. Restaurant and bar. Business Center. Rates $127-$276.

Buy

There are several shops, mainly Inca souvenir types. A market plaza for tourists sits at the entrance to the ruins, small shops up the hill from the plaza may carry the same items and be more willing to negotiate.

On the way from the ruins to the plaza, look out for the Awamaki Fair Trade Store after the bridge on your right hand side. Emphasis is on fairly-traded weavings from the Patacancha valley made with 100% natural fibers and dyes, as well as a select range of books, alpaca yarn and other locally produced artisanal items. The project is non-profit and proceeds from the store are invested into community development projects in the Patacancha Valley.

Contact & location

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The photos displayed on this page are the property of one of the following authors:

Emmanuel DYAN, Ivan Mlinaric, Micah MacAllen, Miguel A. Vera León, Eduardo Zárate, Nick Jewell, Zorka Ostojic Espinoza

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This travel guide also includes text from Wikitravel articles, all available at WikitravelView full credits

David Cross, Josh Johnson, Peter Fitzgerald, Jordan Mills, Tim Sandell and Todd VerBeek, Emma Jane Hague, Inas, Morph, George cowie, Jonboy, Ronald, Huttite and Bletch

This travel guide also includes text from Wikipedia articles, all available at WikipediaView full credits

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